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Buổi sáng, ngồi với người bạn bên hiên một cửa hàng cà phê trên quận 1. Không gian đẹp, sofa đỏ êm ái, nội thất sang trọng, gian bên trong có máy lạnh, nhạc nền nhè nhẹ...

Trước mặt bạn tôi, người phục vụ nhẹ nhàng đặt ly cà phê đá, đúng kiểu “cà phê Sài Gòn” (đậm đặc với nhiều đá) pha sẵn và cho tôi là tách cà phê sữa nóng pha phin. Mùi cà phê thơm ngào ngạt lan tỏa. Còn sớm, chưa đến 8 giờ, nhưng cửa hàng đã đông người...

Thời nào cũng đều có thú uống cà phê

Không biết cà phê chính thức du nhập vào Việt Nam từ khi nào, nhưng từ lâu rồi, cà phê đã trở thành thức uống quen dùng của người thành thị, với một số người khác, cà phê còn là thức uống không thể thiếu để mở đầu cho một ngày lao động. Riêng tôi đã làm quen với cà phê từ khi được cha mẹ “cho một tí vào ly sữa nóng buổi sáng cho thơm”... Tôi thích lắm và chỉ biết là “thơm thơm” thế thôi. Thời đó tôi khoảng 6 hay 7 tuổi, tính đến nay cũng được khoảng 5 thập kỷ.

Ngày tôi còn học tiểu học, khoảng thập niên 60, chưa có nhiều quán cà phê như bây giờ. Chỉ có những tiệm nước (tên gọi các quán hủ tíu mì của người Hoa có bán cả cà phê), hiếm thấy người Việt kinh doanh mặt hàng này. Thường các gia đình công chức mua cà phê về, tự pha phin (phin đọc theo âm tiếng Pháp của từ filtre có nghĩa là cái lọc) uống và dùng điểm tâm tại nhà trước khi đi làm việc.

Thời đó, tiệm tạp hóa nào cũng có bán cà phê và nơi nào cũng trang bị máy xay chạy bằng điện. Khách hàng thường mua 1 hay 2 lạng, người bán xúc cà phê hạt cho vào túi giấy, cân đủ rồi mới cho cà phê vào máy xay, mùi cà phê tỏa ra thơm bát ngát. Tôi còn nhớ có nhiều nhãn hàng như Meilleur Gout, Moka... nhưng nhà tôi hay mua cà phê J.Martin.

Thích thú nhất phải kể đến những kỳ nghỉ được về chơi nhà ông bà ngoại. Ông bà ngoại tôi sống trong con hẻm trên đường Trần Hưng Đạo, quận 1. Từ con hẻm này nhiều ngõ ăn thông qua các đường Cô Giang - Cô Bắc, Cầu Ông Lãnh.

Buổi sáng ông dắt tôi ra để tôi ngồi trong tiệm nước đối diện nơi bà tôi bán đồ hàng bông (thời đó gọi chung rau củ quả như thế), lấy cái bánh tiêu nhét một viên xíu mại vào cho tôi ăn. Ăn xong, ông tôi gọi gì đó và tôi nghe anh chàng phổ ky (chạy bàn) người Hoa hô lớn “phé nại” và liền sau đó mang ra cốc cà phê sữa nóng, đặt trên một cái đĩa nhỏ, cả cốc và đĩa đều bằng sành đã nhuốm màu thời gian, đĩa thì mẻ miệng, cốc thì trầy sướt...

Người Pháp uống cà phê theo cách pha phin, người Hoa có cách pha chế bằng vợt, pha xong cà phê vẫn được để trong cái siêu đất, luôn đặt trên bếp than, nên còn được gọi là cà phê “kho”. Cà phê pha vợt không đậm đặc như cà phê phin nhưng ưu điểm là luôn nóng bốc khói. Uống vào lúc sáng sớm hay khi trời se lạnh là tuyệt vời.

Khách gọi cà phê, họ lấy cái cốc sành tráng sơ qua nước nóng để giữ nhiệt, cho một muỗng đường nhỏ hoặc sữa đặc có đường, tùy theo ý khách gọi, họ có cách rót cà phê rất đặc biệt, dơ cao cái siêu lên và rót cà phê mạnh vào cốc, và với cách rót như thế, lực đủ mạnh để đường hoặc sữa tan một phần, và có thể vì dòng cà phê rơi mạnh từ trên cao xuống nên bao giờ cà phê cũng tràn miệng cốc, ra ngoài đĩa luôn.

Người Hoa còn có một điểm đặc biệt nữa là luôn chọn địa điểm nơi các góc đường có ngã 3, ngã 4 để mở tiệm nước. Và cách họ kinh doanh cũng đáng nghiên cứu: không cần lãi nhiều và bán giá phải chăng nên tiệm nào cũng luôn đông khách, thu hút cả khách sang lẫn người lao động chân tay. Bây giờ chỉ còn gặp những điểm bán cà phê pha vợt tại các khu chợ đầu mối, những khu lao động dân cư hoạt động về khuya.

Tuy không đậm đặc như cà phê phin nhưng khi đến tay khách ly cà phê pha vợt vẫn còn bốc khói nghi ngút. Và, hãy tưởng tượng cảm giác, tớp một ngụm cà phê nóng vào giấc khuya hay những lúc trời se lạnh, thật không gì tuyệt vời hơn!

Đến thập niên 70, ở ngưỡng cửa đại học, chúng tôi đã biết thưởng thức thế nào là cà phê ngon. Vào những hôm có tiền, thay cho cà phê căng tin trường “hơi bị nhạt”, tôi và các bạn đến các quán cà phê có nhạc. Từ cổng Trường Văn khoa Sài Gòn, ngày đó đi xuôi chiều đường Đinh Tiên Hoàng có nhiều quán cà phê như: Hân, Tre, Hồng, Duyên Anh... Cùng kinh doanh một mặt hàng, nhưng hương vị cà phê của mỗi quán đều có nét rất riêng: cà phê của quán Hồng có hương vị ca cao; cà phê của quán Hân thật đậm đặc, từng giọt đặc quánh chầm chậm nhỏ xuống đáy tách, có khi phải gần 10 phút mới xuống hết phin...

Hiện đại nhưng vẫn không thể mất truyền thống

Thập niên 80, nổi bật với cà phê vỉa hè, không phải vì ngon mà vì rẻ tiền. Thời kỳ này đất nước còn khó khăn, các quán cà phê mọc lên khắp nơi. Trong nhà, và cả trên các vỉa hè, đường chính đường phụ gì có tất. Chỉ với một cây dù lớn che tạm nắng mưa, vài cái bàn nhỏ với vài ba cái ghế gỗ là thành quán cà phê. Giá bán ở đây: cà phê đen: 1 đồng; cà phê sữa nóng 1,5 đồng; cà phê đá: 1,5 đồng; cà phê sữa đá: 2 đồng. Nổi tiếng phải kể đến khu cà phê nơi góc Lý Tự Trọng – Nguyễn Trung Trực – quận 1.

Khách hàng là công nhân; công nhân viên chức các xí nghiệp; dân mua bán các khu chợ lân cận như: Intershop; Bến Thành, khu Tạ Thu Thâu (chuyên mua bán quần áo, mỹ phẩm từ nước ngoài gửi về), khu kim khí điện máy Huỳnh Thúc Kháng; khu thuốc Tây Lê Thánh Tôn – Trương Định... Trong khi người sành điệu thời đó lại chuộng các quán cà phê như: Lữ Quán; Trang Đài; Lan Phương trên đường Lê Lợi hơn.

Theo họ, các quán vỉa hè bán cà phê pha tạp nhiều quá, độ đậm đặc thì có, nhưng khi đưa ly cà phê đá ngược ánh sáng chỉ thấy toàn một màu đen tuyền, trái lại nếu là cà phê nguyên chất, loại ngon, ly cà phê sẽ có màu nâu cánh gián rất đẹp. Đến với các quán cà phê dọc đường Lê Lợi, ngoài cà phê ngon còn được thưởng thức những bản nhạc hòa tấu bất hủ qua đĩa nhựa của các nhạc trưởng Paul Mauriat; Frank Pourcel... và đương nhiên giá cà phê cũng đắt gấp đôi gấp ba. Vâng, tiền nào của nấy!

Từ giữa những năm 90 đến nay, khi xã hội Việt Nam phát triển theo hướng tích cực và những tiêu chuẩn nghiêm ngặt về vệ sinh an toàn thực phẩm được nhắc đến nhiều, không còn thấy những quán cà phê nhếch nhác trên vỉa hè.

Dù đã có sự xuất hiện của nhiều loại thức uống giải khát tiện dụng có nguồn gốc từ thiên nhiên, hay các sản phẩm công nghiệp như cà phê hòa tan, cà phê 3 trong 1, cà phê đóng lon..., nhưng pha cà phê theo cách truyền thống vẫn có một chỗ đứng quan trọng trong văn hóa giải khát của người thành phố. Duy nhất có chút thay đổi, là yêu cầu của người dân, nhất là giới trẻ của thế kỷ 21, ngày càng cao và họ luôn khao khát những kiểu thưởng thức cà phê mới. Cà phê ngon, chỗ ngồi thoải mái, không gian lịch sự, trang trí sang trọng, cung cách phục vụ chuyên nghiệp, có wi-fi... từ nhiều năm nay đã trở thành những tiêu chí cần và đủ của người thành phố mỗi khi đi uống cà phê.

Như để đáp ứng xu hướng mới này, hiện nay tại các vị trí đẹp của các khu trung tâm, các tòa cao ốc văn phòng đều đã biết tận dụng lợi thế của mặt bằng tầng trệt để mở những cửa hàng cà phê cao cấp như: Highlands; Terrace; Central; Gloria Jeans; Coffee & Bean; Illy; NYDC; Mori Deli; Napoli; Soho; Garden View; SH Garden; Windows... bên cạnh cà phê phin, họ còn phục vụ cà phê theo phong cách châu Âu, châu Mỹ, có nơi khách vẫn được phục vụ tại bàn, nơi khác khách tự phục vụ theo đúng phong cách Tây phương.

Ngoài thức uống truyền thống các nơi này còn giới thiệu thêm cà phê pha chế theo kiểu Ý, kiểu Mỹ như: Capuchino; Espressio; Latte... phục vụ dân văn phòng năng động.

Còn với các bạn có quan niệm “cốc cà phê không chỉ đơn thuần là thức uống giải khát mà còn là sự lãng mạn, là sự lắng đọng” thì đã có các quán cà phê sân vườn với phong cách trang trí tuyệt vời như Thềm Xưa; Cõi Riêng; Miền Đồng Thảo, Lối Về... nơi mà khoảng trống sân vườn được chủ nhân đặc biệt chăm chút với hoa cỏ, cây cảnh, hồ sen, thác nước cách điệu... tạo cảm giác êm đềm, tĩnh lặng để bạn có thể, trong một khoảng thời gian nào đó, tìm đến tạm lánh xa sự ồn ào náo nhiệt của phố phường.

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